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Owner Karin Agstam and Chef Frederick Piccarello accept brought a accurate Parisian brasserie’s appearance to … [ ] New York’s Lower East Side.

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The arrangement for most, admitting not all, of the newer restaurants on the Lower East Side is to be awful focused (soba noodles at Cocoron; swine-centric at Pig & Khao; veggie Mexican at Jajaja; congee at Congee Village); and/or atrociously afflictive and excruciatingly loud like Mission Chinese Food.  So the openings of the beauteous and all-inclusive Cathédrale (previously advised here) and now the two-level, blithely busy Brasserie Saint Marc accord the adjacency ample added appearance and chic than has been the case in the contempo past. 

Coq au vin is adapted in a affluent red wine booze with breakable vegetables.

Owner Karin Agstam, a above archetypal and extra built-in in Sweden, has acutely put her own claimed aftertaste into the decorating of this 1834 building, demography abounding advantage of its aged brick, now afraid with artwork by Jane Stein, while abacus Carrara marble confined and touches of approach blade wallpaper. The 5,000 square-foot restaurant is set on two floors, with bristles sections: the capital dining room, addition abreast the accessible kitchen, a Champagne bar, an accident amplitude bench and, appear spring, an alfresco garden. The adventurous leitmotif of abundant vases of flowers makes every amplitude alike lovelier. The lighting allows guests to see anybody in the room, while the abundantly French music articulate by chanteuses from Edith Piaf to Melody Gardot plays agilely in the background. 

Brooklyn-born Chef Frederick Piccarello, who’s formed at the French Roast café in Manhattan and Le Barricou in Williamsburg, possesses both les techniques and la passion for acceptable French cuisine, as axiomatic in the deep, aphotic borsch with candied caramelized onions and aerated Gruyère in his onion soup ($14)  as it is in his appropriately aphotic and winey coq au vin ($27). His frites ($6) are the according of any I’ve had in New York and bigger than a lot I’ve had in Paris. 

The Ukrainian bowl appearance borscht, bios bouillon and pastry dumplings.

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Owing to Agstam’s husband, who has roots in the Ukraine, there is additionally a accomplished Ukrainian bowl absolute a adorable borscht, bigos of broiled meat and sauerkraut, and veryeniki dumplings arranged with farmer’s cheese. 

Though I’ve been seeing the acknowledgment of what acclimated to be alleged the “cover” or “bread and adulate charge,” I’m not yet acclimated to it, and At Saint Marc’s it will run you a bashful $3 for (very acceptable bread) and butter.

Among the added appetizers I enjoyed was the mushroom tartine ($9) on acknowledgment with agrarian mushrooms covered with broiled cheeses. 

I’m not agrarian about apricot that is not wild, so I was blessed to see that Saint Marc’s is, via Scotland, and it tasted that way, with none of the addled acidity of farm-raised fish. Actuality it is accurately broiled and served with chickpeas, tomato, fennel, harissa and amethyst molasses ($24), absorption France’s affiliation to above colonies in North Africa. 

Unlike best restaurants in America, Brasserie Saint Marc uses agrarian apricot from Scottish waters.

There’s not a card anywhere these canicule that does not accept sea scallops on it 24/7 and 365 canicule a year, but Saint Marc’s are adapted in the much-missed old ancient appearance as coquilles Saint Jacques ($22), brought in by Maine day boats and broiled with a abundant Mornay booze of cream, mushrooms and Gruyère cheese.  Succulent to the bone, a long-braised lamb brand was braised to the point of caramelization, served over a vegetable couscous.

There are nightly specials—cassoulet on Tuesday ($24), canard à l’orange on Wednesday ($26), alike frog’s legs sautéed in adulate garlic and parsley on Saturdays ($18). 

Of advance you’ll appetite to try the mousse au chocolat ($12), the crème  brûlée ($10) and the tarte Tatin($10) at the cessation of such a solid brasserie meal, but don’t carelessness the assistant aliment pudding with buttered rum booze ($10), maybe with a alternative from a actual acceptable digestifs list.  

The wine account runs about 50 labels, some actual familiar, a few out of the ordinary, with affluence of options beneath $60 and few over $100.

It is account acquainted that, as at any acceptable brasserie, you can get abounding of the wines by the bottle or the carafe, which allows a table of four a reasonable indulgence. The cocktail account had a cardinal of arresting concoctions.  

A quick bout of the absolute bounds of Saint Marc shows acutely that Agstam intends to draw affluence of parties, and her access to the appearance and ball apple are acceptable to affluence the way. Meanwhile, she is there every night, generally with her candied four-year-old towhead on her hip, actual abundant in the French brasserie attitude of bistro well en famille. 

Open Tues.-Sun. for dinner, Fri.& Sat. for brunch.

BRASSERIE SAINT MARC

136 Second Avenue (near 9th Street). 

212-548-3859

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