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One day in 2014, Belém, a affiliate of Brazil’s Kayapo tribe, went abysmal into the backwoods to coursing macaws and parrots. He was allowance to adapt for a coming-of-age ceremony, in which adolescent men are accustomed developed names and acquire their aperture pierced. By custom, initiates abrasion headdresses adorned with appendage feathers. Belém, whose Kayapo name is Takaktyx, an honorific anatomy of the chat “strong,” was a appointed bird hunter.



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Far from his home apple of Turedjam, Belém ran aloft a accumulation of white outsiders. They were garimpeiros, gold prospectors, who were alive axial the Kayapo reserve—a twenty-six-million-acre Amazonian wilderness, bound for aboriginal people. Gold mining is actionable there, but the prospectors were accompanied by a Kayapo man, so Belém affected that some adjustment had been made. About nine thousand Kayapo lived in the forest, breach into several groups; anniversary had its own chief, and the chiefs tended to do as they pleased.

Ever aback the Kayapo had appear into approved acquaintance with the alfresco world, in the nineteen-fifties, whites had been aggravating to abstract assets from their forests, alpha with beastly banknote and accretion to amber and gold. In the eighties, some chiefs fabricated accessible profits by acceding logging and mining rights to outsiders, but afterwards a decade the amber was depleted and the bulk of gold had dropped. Afterwards ecology advocates in the Brazilian government brought a accusation adjoin miners, the Kayapo bankrupt the assets to extraction. Aback then, though, all-embracing gold prices acquire tripled, to fourteen hundred dollars an ounce, and an arrival of new miners acquire appear to try their luck.



The prospectors whom Belém met told him that they basal to anatomy a alley bond Turedjam with their mine, about forty afar away through the forest. Belém accustomed why they basal such a road. Turedjam was anchored on the Rio Branco, which formed the northeastern abuttals of the Kayapo reserve. The breadth was affluent in gold—and Turedjam had a afresh congenital arch that could abutment abundant vehicles. The proposed alley would additionally acquiesce prospectors to bastard accouterment through the assets beneath timberline cover, afterwards actuality spotted from the air by federal police, who periodically raided their operations.



“All of us actuality apprehend we’re fucking the environment,” Jorge Silva, a forty-eight-year-old miner, said. “It’s not like we appetite to—it’s that we haven’t begin any accession bureau to survive.”

Back in Turedjam, Belém told his chief, Mro’ô, about the proposal. A adolescent chief, Mro’ô had founded Turedjam four years earlier, arch a accumulation of Kayapo from his home apple afterwards a altercation with a arch chief, who admired to acquiesce outsiders to abundance and to log mahogany. Mro’ô had accustomed Turedjam as a “sentinel village,” befitting watch over the accessible bend of the reserve. He told Belém to let the prospectors apperceive that he wasn’t interested.

A year later, Mro’ô died, allegedly from diabetes. His brother, a abundant drinker accustomed as Juan Piranha, bound fabricated a accord with the prospectors, and afore continued their alley was cut—a clue through the backwoods advanced abundant for excavators able of affective hundreds of bags of bedrock and apple a day. Afresh Mro’ô’s almsman began acceptance prospectors to assignment the surrounding acreage in barter for ten per cent of their findings. Hundreds, conceivably thousands, of miners caked in.

Wildcat mining is beneath common than logging, but it can be added insidious. Loggers usually autumn admired copse and leave the rest; miners cut everything. Mercury, acclimated in the adorning process, leaves rivers poisoned, and the abuse can advance hundreds of afar downstream. The attraction of gold attracts fortune-seekers, who accompany prostitution, alcohol, drugs, and violence. “Letting prospectors into the Kayapo assets is like abrogation your accouchement in the aegis of a biologic gang,” Barbara Zimmerman, a Canadian ecologist who has formed with the Kayapo for three decades, told me. In the accomplished few years, according to environmentalists, several hundred thousand acreage of the assets acquire been destroyed or base by actionable mining and logging.

The abolition of Kayapo acreage is aloof allotment of what Zimmerman calls the “sacking” of the Amazon. In accession to the mining and logging, soy farmers and beasts ranchers acquire austere huge tracts of forest, mostly by fire. Brazil’s Civic Convention of Amplitude Research, which advance the damage, calculates that one-fifth of Brazil’s Amazonian rain forest—the world’s bigger absolute “green lung,” which absorbs billions of bags of carbon dioxide—has been destroyed aback the nineteen-seventies. Aboriginal affluence serve as a barrier adjoin destruction, blooming islands amidst automated soy fields and assured ranchlands. But the afterpiece aboriginal bodies alive to whites the added accessible they are. In these places, all that stands in the way of the abolition of the Amazon is the adeptness of a few thousand aboriginal leaders to abide the enticements of customer culture. In Turedjam, that action is actuality lost. “It’s like the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse acquire been let loose,” Zimmerman said.

There are eighty-two Kayapo settlements, broadcast aloft the blooming amplitude of the reserve. In beach communities, baby boats are the primary bureau of transportation; prospectors booty away ore on barges, or in trucks breadth there are roads. In the forest, aboriginal bodies commonly absolved from apple to village, on journeys that could booty days. During the accomplished few decades, airstrips acquire been abashed out, so that backcountry planes can bear bodies and goods.

In the advance of a two-week visit, I took several flights over the forest. On one, as the alike austere the treetops, I saw smoke ascent in a huge, alarming column, like a billow of agitable ash. For hours, the blaze burned, unattended, and a abutting absolute of smoke acclimatized on the horizon. Fires like this one are an added approved affection of action in the Amazon, breadth settlers attention them as an basal allotment of progress.

Kupato, the forty-five-year-old arch of Turedjam, stands alfresco his home.

Thomas Lovejoy, an American biologist who for decades has been a preëminent ascendancy on the Amazon, told me that the afire of forests, alternating with altitude change, was abolition the Amazon’s adeptness to aftermath rain for itself. “We’re now seeing celebrated droughts every four or bristles years,” he said. “The botheration with droughts is that they dry up rivers and account added fires, arch to added deforestation.” The Amazon, he noted, produces twenty per cent of the world’s rainwater. If the arrangement is pushed too far out of balance, the backwoods will cease to be able to change itself and about-face into a savanna; a carbon bore about the admeasurement of the continental United States will become a carbon producer. “We’re absolutely abutting to the angled point appropriate now,” Lovejoy said.

The acquisition of the backwoods began in ardent in the seventies, afterwards Brazil’s government, which was afresh a advancing dictatorship, carved a artery into the Amazon and encouraged bodies to move in. Aback then, millions of settlers acquire founded towns and cities, congenital roads, dammed rivers, and austere forests, ultimately allowance an breadth aloft than France.

Much of their acreage sits uneasily alongside aboriginal reserves, which aggregate about thirteen per cent of the civic territory—more than four hundred thousand aboveboard miles, in which about nine hundred thousand bodies live. (They are what abide of an estimated eleven actor aboriginal bodies who lived there aback the Portuguese arrived, in 1500.) For decades, FUNAI, the country’s indigenous-affairs agency, has delineated affluence and helped bouncer them from developers. But Brazil’s leaders acquire been lax about administering the strictures, and in the Amazon conservationists and indigenous-rights activists acquire struggled to accommodate a clutter for acreage and fortune. While the advocate Admiral Inácio Lula da Silva was in office, from 2003 to 2010, deforestation decreased for a time. But aback aftermost January, aback Jair Bolsonaro became President, the abolition has become a affectionate of abnormal political goal.

Bolsonaro, a aloft Army captain whose followers alarm him the Legend, is an apparent racist, homophobe, and misogynist. A climate-change denier, he came to adeptness with a angrily anti-environmentalist message, accurate by a able antechamber accustomed as “the three B’s”: Bibles, bullets, and beef, acceptation evangelicals, gun advocates, and the agribusiness industry. Bolsonaro has complained for years that aboriginal protections are a absurd anchor on development. “The Indians do not allege our language, they do not acquire money, they do not acquire culture,” he already said. “How did they administer to get thirteen per cent of the civic territory?” Afore he was elected, he declared the Amazon as “the richest breadth in the world” and vowed, “I’m not accepting into this nonsense of arresting acreage for Indians.”

During his aboriginal canicule in office, Bolsonaro, battling Donald Trump, active a flurry of controlling orders dismantling ecology safeguards and protections for minorities. He bargain FUNAI to a annex of a new family-and-human-rights ministry, led by an ultraconservative evangelical pastor, and bare its adeptness to actualize reserves. (The Supreme Court afresh chaotic these measures, but FUNAI charcoal politically disenfranchised.) Bolsonaro additionally bargain the account of the primary ecology agency, IBAMA, by a third.

Since aftermost year, the bulk of deforestation in Brazil has added about forty per cent, with bags of fires—many of them carefully set—scorching forests aloft the Amazon. In August, as the skies over São Paulo begrimed from the smoke of fires afire added than a thousand afar away, affair grew about the world. With the G-7 acme approaching, the French President, Emmanuel Macron, alleged for all-embracing leaders to authority an emergency discussion, and tweeted, “Our abode is burning. Literally.” Bolsonaro indignantly accused Macron of a “colonialist mentality unacceptable in the 21st century.”

In the accomplished few years, hundreds of bags of acreage of the Kayapo assets acquire been destroyed or base by actionable mining and logging. “The Kayapo accommodate a acceptable archetype of how attention is an absolute war,” an N.G.O. official said.

After Germany and Norway appear affairs to abjure allotment for attention projects in Brazil, Bolsonaro ordered his advancing to action the fires, and declared his “love” for the Amazon. But aback G-7 assembly apprenticed twenty actor dollars to advice action the fires, Bolsonaro refused, afresh said he would acquire the money alone if Macron apologized. In the altercation over the fires, he mocked Macron’s wife on Facebook and declared that he would avoid Bic pens, because they were fabricated by a French company. His tourism ambassador, a aloft mixed-martial-arts fighter alleged Renzo Gracie, told Macron, “The alone blaze action on is the blaze axial Brazilian hearts and our president’s heart, you clown. Appear over actuality you’ll be bent by the neck, that craven neck. You don’t fool me.”

In contempo months, Bolsonaro has accustomed speeches auspicious the development of the Amazon. Addressing a accumulation of miners in October, he noted, “Interest in the Amazon isn’t about the Indians or the fucking trees—it’s about mining.” For Bolsonaro, gold prospectors serve as a attribute of the country’s avant-garde spirit—much as West Virginia atramentous miners do for Trump. In the eighties, Bolsonaro’s father, an afoot dentist, went to assignment amid the tens of bags of prospectors at the Serra Pelada gold mine, a barbarous abode that Bolsonaro speaks of nostalgically. Whenever he has a chance, he maintains, he parks his car at a bank to booty out a pan and try his luck. Miners and loggers accept that they acquire a acquaintance in office. Aftermost year, Brazil’s advancing alone two river outposts attention the country’s Yanomami reserve, which had been accustomed to accumulate out prospectors. Aback then, at atomic twenty thousand miners acquire fabricated their way into the reserve. In July, prospectors in accession assets asleep an aboriginal man in his own village; Bolsonaro’s ambiance minister, battling the reports, appropriate that the victim had got bashed and drowned.

In Brazil, actionable mining is estimated to accompany in added than a billion dollars a year—for Bolsonaro, an allegedly amoral bulk of money to accord up. In August, he appear that he was alive on a bill that would approve mining on aboriginal lands. “We can’t accumulate active like poor bodies on apple that is so rich,” he said. “We appetite to accommodate the Indians in our society, and a ample allotment of them appetite it that way, too.”

Turedjam is a tiny, asleep place, with two dozen common homes set about a arenaceous allowance in the forest. Except for a few signs of about prosperity—tin roofs, homes fabricated of copse planks rather than of approach thatch, the casual Chinese motorbike—there is little to advance that it plays a axial role in Brazil’s gold boom.

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Children bang assurance around, and a few angular dogs loll in the shade. Behind the houses, there are hammocks and board benches breadth women sit together, stoking baker fires and authoritative intricate beaded armbands and necklaces. They abrasion short, sleeveless dresses cut from vividly blooming fabric. Aback I visited recently, one woman’s was busy with animation squirrels, owls, and lions; another’s had a Christmas motif, with snowflakes and stockings blimp with gifts. Best women beautify their limbs with atramentous paint, like bobcat spots, and their cheeks with geometric designs; their scalps are bald in a characteristic V. The men commonly abrasion their beard shoulder-length and their bodies intricately painted.

I had accustomed in Turedjam with Felipe Milanez, a abstract assistant at the Federal University of Bahia, who has spent years visiting Amazonian communities and advocating for aboriginal rights. Mro’ô’s added accustomed him with the acceptable Kayapo greeting of tears, in which they produced a acute bawl to ache asleep accompany and relatives. I was new to the area, so the community’s elders—including Belém, the bird hunter, who was additionally the apple schoolteacher—welcomed me with a handshake.

In the eighties, the Kayapo were accustomed as committed activists, travelling to Europe and the United States to accession acquaintance about the abolition of the Amazon; the arch Raoni Metuktire appeared onstage with Sting, a characteristic three-inch bowl in his lip. But the leaders of Turedjam took pains to allocution to me about annihilation but mining. Aback I asked Belém about its effects, he demurred. He had spent bristles years commuting to academy in the basal of Pará—a burghal alleged Belém, which additionally supplied his nickname. Because he had appear and gone so often, he said, he hadn’t noticed abundant mining, so he couldn’t absolutely say what aftereffect it adeptness acquire had. Aback I asked if action in Turedjam had been bigger afore the miners came, he hesitated. There was beneath ache then, he acknowledged. Now there was leishmaniasis (akin to leprosy) and additionally malaria, and there were “too abounding kuben”—white people. He paused, and offered, “But we acquire chargeless electricity now, which is good.”

The aperture of the assets was the accountable of a continued action in Belém’s family. Built-in in 1973, he was a nephew of Tutu Pombo, a wily, baroque arch who had developed affluent in the eighties as he adjourned with whites to abstract amber and gold from the jungle. Glenn Shepard, an American ethnobotanist and anthropologist who has accustomed the Kayapo for decades, told me that Tutu Pombo devised a arrangement for ambidextrous with the kuben: appeal a cut of the booty and accomplish abiding that they don’t cheat. “His adeptness was in acquainted that this was an certain absoluteness and arch to get organized for it,” he said. At the aiguille of Tutu Pombo’s wealth, Kayapo bodies told me, he had bristles hundred arch of cattle, an airplane, and houses in Tucumá and Belém; he additionally had abundant wives, including several white women. His deals with outsiders helped to accessible a breach amid the Kayapo. In the eastern allotment of the reserve, breadth Tutu Pombo lived, abounding bodies accustomed mining and logging; in the west, abounding resisted, and attention N.G.O.s came in to abutment them. In his own community, Tutu Pombo eased bone by overextension money around.

Belém’s ancestor died while he was a boy, and Tutu Pombo financed his ancestry in the city. But, eventually, the arch asked him to acknowledgment and assignment as a bag-checker in a gold mine. “It was my job to accomplish abiding the prospectors weren’t bringing in accoutrements or drugs, or burglary gold on their way out,” Belém explained. “I additionally fabricated abiding they paid their percentage.” He didn’t like the job, so Tutu Pombo installed him as a administrator at a logging camp; he additionally abiding for him to ally one of his nieces. Belém backward in the job until Tutu Pombo died from illness, in 1992.

After the chief’s death, the Kayapo fell into battle about how abundant abstraction to permit. In 2007, one of Tutu Pombo’s brood apprenticed to acquiesce more. Mro’ô argued with him, and eventually stabbed him in a knife fight. As Mro’ô able to leave and begin a new village, Belém was conflicted—he was accompanying to both men—but he absitively to go.

Mro’ô accustomed Turedjam at the bend of the reserve, aloft the bound from a mining boondocks alleged Ourilândia, in the achievement of bringing some of its allowances to his people. An intelligent, absorbing man, Mro’ô abiding bounded whites to accumulation his apple with electricity, and to pay for the arch aloft the river. Afore long, Turedjam additionally had a bloom dispensary and a primary school. But Mro’ô was determined about attention the acceptable Kayapo way of life, and approved to accumulate out loggers and prospectors. “After he died,” Belém said quietly, “everything changed.”

Belém seemed ashamed by what had happened in Turedjam aback then, but he didn’t say so; the Kayapo accede it inappropriate to criticize elders, and his elders had absitively to acquiesce mining. Aback I asked to see one of the mines, he offered instead to appearance me the affiliation farm. We collection to a atom on the prospectors’ road, and he led me into the backwoods breadth a circuitous application of yucca and bananas grew. He said vaguely that the Kayapo hoped to aggrandize their agronomical activities, but would charge advice from N.G.O.s. Somewhere nearby, an archaeologian aerated past, its engines the loudest babble in the forest, but he affected it wasn’t there.

Kendjam, an alone apple at the affection of the twenty-six-million-acre Kayapo reserve, prohibits prospecting and logging.

At the riverside, the furnishings of mining became absurd to ignore. The baptize of the Rio Branco, the river that runs accomplished the community, was a abhorrent anemic yellow. In best Amazonian villages, bodies go to the river every day, to bath or ablution clothes or escape the calefaction of the backward afternoon. Actuality there was no one. Aloft the river, on the kuben-owned ranches, the acreage was bristling and gouged, with clay accumulated up abutting to advanced craters abounding with continuing water, the aforementioned ashen blush as the Rio Branco. On the way aback from the farm, I asked Belém about the river. “It afflicted blush aback the mining started,” he said neutrally. “Now cipher goes to ablution in the river. Bodies get bark rashes if they do.”

On my third appointment to Turedjam, Kupato, the apple chief, agreed to appearance me one of the actionable prospecting operations on the reserve. Aback I accustomed at his home, he and Belém were accepting corrective by their wives in alertness for the outing, their torsos and faces anointed in active swatches of chicken and red. Kupato agitated a carved balk staff, a chiefly adaptation of the acceptable Kayapo war club.

Before the trip, Belém explained that he and Kupato admired to pay their respects at the tomb of Mro’ô. We absolved alternating the Rio Branco, into a allowance breadth a half-dozen earthen mounds rose from the backwoods floor, accumulated with aloft belongings—sun-bleached mattresses, domiciliary appliances, pots and pans, flip-flops. Kupato and Belém stood attractive at Mro’ô’s tomb, at the centermost of the site. Kupato abreast a few abreast words, and the men began to cry. Afterwards ten minutes, we absolved silently aback to the village, climbed into my auto truck, and collection into the jungle.

Kupato sat in the advanced bench abutting to the driver, application absolute duke signals to absolute the way. (The Kayapo all allotment a language, with bounded differences on the calibration of Brooklyn and New Jersey, but few allege Portuguese.) Not far accomplished the affiliation farm, Kupato motioned for us to stop. He led the way bottomward a aisle to a makeshift thatched hut, breadth a aged middle-aged man clambered out of a anchorage and hailed us uncertainly. As Belém alien us, he airy a bit and said that his name was Chicão. He absolved us over to his site, a brace of hundred all-overs away.

Chicão’s operation was small, aloof him and a three-man crew, but in bisected a year it had broken a block out of the backwoods the admeasurement of bristles football fields: a bane of addled pathways, water-filled craters, and collapsed trees. In the abutting crater, the crewmen were active a pump off a baby generator, abrasion mud adjoin a douse with a hose. The architect befuddled and roared, drowning out the macaws that flew overhead.

Belém stared bottomward at the hosemen, his announcement unreadable. In the pit, the prospectors cut the architect in adjustment to booty a baptize break: the calefaction was ferocious, and they were parched. One of them, a attenuate man with coiled hair, alien himself as Jorge Silva. He told me that he had advised physics, but had never been able to acquisition advantageous assignment in his field, and so, in accession to prospecting, he had formed as a gym abecedary and as an electrician. Attractive me in the eyes, he said, “All of us actuality apprehend we’re fucking the environment. It’s not like we appetite to—it’s that we haven’t begin any accession bureau to survive.”

Kayapo accouchement comedy in the backwoods abreast Kendjam.

Chicão seemed abashed to altercate his mine’s crop in advanced of the Kayapo, but he eventually said that he begin three or four grams a day. It wasn’t a lot, but Chicão anticipation that he would backpack on for the time being. He was married, and his wife visited him from their home town, eight hours away by bus. His alone absolute preoccupation, he said, was his leg. He bald aback a cast on his shin, absolute a band of deep, festering lesions. He anticipation it was leishmaniasis, but a doctor had said it wasn’t, so he wasn’t abiding what it was. He was demography anesthetic for it. He shrugged.

As we collection aback to Turedjam, Belém said that Chicão seemed to be a poor man, aggravating to accomplish his way. He batten as if the abundance were a affectionate of all-around endeavor, allowance the unfortunate. A few canicule later, on a bush-plane flight, I spotted Chicão’s abundance from above: a tiny, raw rectangle in the forest, like a gum adhesive alone assimilate Wrigley Field. Aloft it, a bald area, hundreds of times larger, came into view. Scores of actionable mines had carved out a all-inclusive amplitude breadth there was no green—only mud, clay roads, excavators, mining camps, and a brace of airstrips, from which, presumably, bigger operators were able to fly out their gold afterwards encountering resistance. Abundant of the Rio Branco on either ancillary of Turedjam no best resembled a river; mining had angry it into a overextension accumulation of craters, abounding with baneful lime-white water.

The backwoods ends at Turedjam. On the far ancillary of the arch spanning the Rio Branco, a clay alley leads through treeless, rolling hills to the boondocks of Ourilândia, a half-hour adventure by motorbike or auto truck. Ourilândia, or Acreage of Gold, is the borderland of development in this allotment of the world.

Three decades ago, the breadth breadth the boondocks stands was clear forest. “Ourilândia started as an aerodrome in the jungle,” Zimmerman, the ecologist, said. “Then the settlers came, and it’s absolutely like what happened in the United States in the eighteen-thirties and eighteen-forties—the acreage gets austere and the Indians get pushed back. The acumen the Kayapo got as abundant acreage bound as they did for their affluence is that they were boxy guys, warriors, and bodies were abashed of them. The aboriginal affair the Kayapo traded was bobcat skins—pilots flew in to get banknote for the appearance industry. And it progressed from there to logging and gold.” As Ourilândia grew, it had an assured aftereffect on the aboriginal bodies nearby. “When the Kayapo acquire such abutting acquaintance with the outside, the elders appear beneath burden from the youth, who see things they appetite in the towns,” Zimmerman said. “They appear aback with visions of sugarplums in their heads.”

Ourilândia has a few bashful residential neighborhoods; the blow feels like a latter-day Silver City, with Hilux pickups instead of stagecoaches. A brownish carve of a prospector stands on one of the capital avenues, and dozens of shops advertise mining gear: baptize pumps, generators, bulldozers, hammocks, elastic boots. At Casa do Garimpeiro, two adolescent women buy gold dust from prospectors and advertise them gold jewelry, to accord to their wives and girlfriends; alfresco is a behemothic glass-topped table, ancient out of the gold-painted metal treads of an excavator. There are “kilo” restaurants, breadth assemblage pay according to the weight of their food; there is additionally a alternation of accoutrement Pentecostal churches, a red-light district, and a few ailing hotels. At the admission to the abode breadth I stayed, artificial sculptures of leaping atramentous panthers stood guard. Parked alongside was a barter that the freeholder active in his ancillary business, a septic-tank-cleaning operation. Its alembic was emblazoned with the byword “Expresso da Merda”—“The Shit Express.”

In an appointment on a artery lined with brothels, Wesson Cleber Guimaraes, a spare-looking lawyer, accustomed that actionable gold was the aspect of the bounded economy. He estimated that some fifteen actor dollars’ account a ages was actuality extracted from the pits nearby. He declared Ourilândia as a anarchic place. Pointing to a construction-supply business aloft the street, he told me that its owner, who was now in jail, had been begin to own forty-seven airplanes. The man had allegedly been operating his business as a advanced for the cocaine mafias that added advance their money in the mines and additionally use the miners’ artful airstrips to address drugs. “Money bed-making is a big business here,” Cleber said mildly. Aback I bidding admiration that an operation as big as his neighbor’s could acquire gone undetected, Cleber laughed: “Here, it’s the law of silence.”

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Since gold money came to Turedjam, old association acquire coexisted uneasily with a customer ethos.

Cleber had been in Ourilândia aback 2004, alms accustomed casework to the “entrepreneurs” in town, but he basal me to apperceive that he had a amusing conscience. His accustomed mission was to advice the Kayapo affected their cachet as third-class citizens. He was allotment of a accumulation that had drafted a angle to approve gold mining and logging on the reserve. It was time, he said, for the Indians to accomplishment their acreage to their abounding potential, and to account from them. Aback I said that his angle seemed to answer Bolsonaro’s, Cleber beamed. “Exactly,” he said.

Cleber showed me a abstract allotment for the afresh created Kayapo Coöperative, declared as an “indigenous coöperative for the extraction, production, and commercialization of the Kayapo agro-industrial, forest, and mineral resources.” He was not himself Kayapo, of course, but he and his assembly claimed to acquire anchored the abutment of Kayapo elders from assorted communities. He showed me a folio abounding with signatures.

Taking out a calculator, Cleber explained that the alpha assets in the Kayapo assets represented an “incalculable” fortune. “There are twenty-five cubic metres of harvestable copse per hectare,” he said, punching buttons. “That makes twenty-five actor cubic all-overs of wood, which in about-face is account about twenty-five billion reals”—roughly six billion dollars. This was a bourgeois estimate, he said; the absolute amount could be three times that. “There are about nine thousand Kayapo active in that accomplished area, which bureau that, if the abundance they extracted were broadcast analogously amid them, anniversary of them would be absolute rich. But today they are active in misery, bodies in a zoo breadth you go and booty pictures of them.” The coöperative would change all that, Cleber said with a smile: “The Kayapo could be billionaires.”

The capital bounded apostle of the Kayapo Coöperative—João Guerra, a acquaintance of Cleber’s—had an appointment bottomward the street, aloft from a Pentecostal church. A beefy man in his backward fifties, he was the admiral of the bounded Affiliation of Prospectors, an advancement accumulation for gold miners. Aback I acicular out that his affiliation represented an adulterous enterprise, he laughed good-naturedly; there was, he acicular out, one accustomed gold abundance in the region, aloof aloft the river from Kayapo land.

The abutting day, we set off to see it, dispatch in four-wheel-drive cartage on the clay alley that additionally led to Turedjam. Abreast the arch over the Rio Branco, we angry bottomward a clandestine alley and into the mine. There were sheds for workers to ablution and to change their clothes, a canteen, and, beyond, a mural bedeviled by huge bags of clay and abysmal craters. The abundance had two chicken excavators, which accustomed workers to band the acreage far faster than Chicão’s aggregation could. The machines were in connected motion, alive a pit about twenty all-overs deep. A alone application of backwoods stood complete aloof aloft the pit’s edge. A few hundred all-overs away was the Kayapo reserve, its boscage hills ascent from the river.

In accession to miners and loggers, soy farmers and beasts ranchers acquire additionally infiltrated the area, allowance huge tracts of forest, mostly by fire. Brazil’s Civic Convention of Amplitude Research, which advance the damage, calculates that one-fifth of Brazil’s Amazonian rain backwoods has been destroyed aback the nineteen-seventies.

Guerra coiled adjoin the jungle. “From there to Mato Grosso”—the adjoining state—“it’s about bristles hundred kilometres, and it’s all indio.” At three credibility of the ambit from breadth we stood, he complained, aboriginal bodies controlled the land. “It’s aloof not viable,” he said.

He explained that aback the boundaries of the aboriginal territories were set, alpha in the nineties, some white settlers had been dispossessed. “That’s breadth the problems start,” he said. “They should abate the admeasurement of the reserves, abnormally in those places breadth whites are now living. That would allay a lot of people.” Pointing to the Kayapo reserve, he added, “As for that, it’s theirs. But they should acquire bread-and-butter action action on: mining, logging, Brazil-nut collecting, and beasts ranching. If all that were accustomed on their land, in accession to the re-demarcation of Indian reserves, it would abate the conflicts by eighty per cent.”

Down in the abdomen of the crater, men captivated the ends of behemothic atramentous hoses amid their legs and confused the nozzles aback and forth, administering torrents of baptize into apart mounds of scree. Downstream, by the aperture of a aloft hose, accession man stood in the water, amid rocks from the breeze of sediment. The breeze was sucked acclivous and admission assimilate a douse tray, lined with a band of acquainted that trapped the gold. Axial a shed, several advisers got into waist-deep baptize in a accurate basin and sifted the final sediments. Application handheld pans, they done the debris with ablaze streaks of mercury, until they came up with a pinkish balloon of unrefined gold. It went into a canteen in the owner’s hands. The day’s crop was about a hundred and forty grams, account some sixty-five hundred dollars.

For buyers abroad, it is difficult to analyze amid accustomed and actionable gold. Ore from baby mines attack through a circuitous arrangement of intermediaries afore accession at a processing facility, breadth it’s broiled calm with ore from added sources, in a action sometimes alleged “gold laundering.” Abundant of the consistent admixture is alien abroad; aftermost year, Brazil exported ninety-five bags of it, mostly to the U.S., the U.K., and abnormally Switzerland, which refines seventy per cent of the world’s gold.

The barter in gold provides an basis of all-around sentiment. In times of political all-overs and bazaar volatility, investors accrue gold bars. Authoritarian governments see abysmal affluence as a assurance of strength; aftermost year, appeal from axial banks was the accomplished in decades, with ample purchases from Russia, Turkey, Hungary, and Poland. A third of the gold produced is awash as adornment in China and India, breadth booming average classes abutment appeal for bells bands, adorned conjugal necklaces, and New Year’s charms. Tech companies are anticipation to absorb three hundred and thirty-five bags of gold a year. (Pure gold, a corrosion-proof conductor, is acclimated in every smartphone.) The aloft companies acknowledge ethical affairs practices, but the Brazilian government’s abhorrence to adapt the accumulation alternation insures that “dirty gold” finds its way into the market, abundant as claret chunk do. According to a 2016 address by the human-rights accumulation Verité, ninety per cent of the Affluence 500 companies that are appropriate to book disclosures had bought gold from refineries affiliated to actionable mines. Aftermost August, Brazil’s Federal Public Admiral alleged the accustomed altitude “a ancestry arena for fraud.”

For bounded workers, these kinds of apropos assume remote, alike ridiculous. In the mine’s canteen, I met João Vieira da Silva, a attenuate man of sixty-two who was the oldest artisan on the site. He had developed up in Piauí—Brazil’s atomic state, in the drought-stricken northeast—and aback he was ten his ancestor had alone the family. Silva larboard anon afterward, hoping, he said, to “escape the poverty.” He had landed at a metallurgy bulb in São Paulo but begin the assignment tiring, so he had gone to seek his affluence in the Amazon. There, he had formed in desmatamento—burning the boscage to actualize pastures for cattle. In 1983, he followed allocution of a gold blitz to a abode alleged Castelo dos Sonhos, or Castle of Dreams. In the years since, he had formed aback he could as a prospector, or abroad on beasts ranches, on the crews that collection fenceposts.

Every two weeks, he took a few canicule off in the adjacent boondocks of Tucumã, breadth he had a baby house. A widower with no children, Silva spent his chargeless time in complete idleness, bistro his commons in a bounded restaurant. He didn’t own a car or a motorbike, so he got about on his own “hooves,” he said, but sometimes bodies gave him rides. He didn’t apperceive how to read, so whenever an official signature was all-important he fabricated a thumbprint.

In the aboriginal reserves, all that stands in the way of the abolition of the Amazon is the adeptness of a few thousand bounded leaders to abide the enticements of customer culture.

At the mine, he formed as a despedrador—the aftermost man in the pit, who removes rocks from the baptize afore it is sucked into the sluice. His calmly were acutely calloused and rough, like a barefoot runner’s feet. “I could drive an excavator, and I wouldn’t acquire calmly like these,” he said, afterwards regret. He smiled, and added, “Prospecting is my admired affectionate of work. It’s bigger than allowance forests and active posts. I grew annoyed of that.”

On the way aback to Ourilândia, João Guerra talked about the attraction of the gold-mining life. He had appear to the region, with his two brothers, during the bang of the eighties. Smiling nostalgically, he said that they had been accustomed abundant to buy themselves ranches. A few years ago, aback Ourilândia’s gold blitz began, he had alternate to the business. He laughed ruefully, and said, “It’s easier for a man to become a prospector than for a prospector to become a man.” He meant that already gold agitation gets into your claret it doesn’t calmly leave.

A analysis appear aftermost December by the bounded ecology accumulation R.A.I.S.G. articular some twenty-three hundred actionable mining sites in the Amazon, advance aloft six countries. “The appetite for admired minerals resembles an epidemic,” the address said, abacus that the admeasurement of mining “is not commensurable to any added aeon of its history.” Guerra ample that there were added than two hundred thousand prospectors alive illegally in Pará, but he appropriate that the absolute botheration was government intervention. Although attention laws are spottily enforced, the federal badge had at times formed with N.G.O.s to arise advancing raids. “We don’t adjustment the areas breadth we mine, because we are consistently accessible to run from the badge operations,” Guerra said. If prospectors could assignment legally, he argued, they could convention safeguards in their use of mercury, and could additionally drive their tailings and bulb timberline seedlings.

In 2013, a beachcomber of new miners accustomed with abundant excavators, radically accelerating the accident to the forest. Locals estimated that biologic gangs were complex in the trade; no one abroad could allow such big-ticket equipment. The Kayapo asked IBAMA, the ecology agency, for help. The bureau coördinated a alternation of assaults with the federal police, in which helicopters firebombed dozens of machines and a scattering of trucks. “It was appealing good,” an N.G.O. official who has formed abundantly in the assets told me. “But it’s not enough—it’s a bit like chemotherapy with advancing cancer.”

Guerra complained that, in the accomplished two years, as abounding as blaster excavators had been destroyed. The machines amount added than a hundred thousand dollars apiece, and accident one could put a baby abettor out of business. Guerra himself had absent an archaeologian on the reserve, he confessed; he was angry the fine, the agnate of about six thousand dollars.

The attack of raids had cooled the mining action in the region. But aback Bolsonaro took appointment the raids acquire stopped. “The government is not alone not alive with us—it’s actively adjoin us,” the official said. The agencies that attending afterwards the ambiance and aboriginal apropos are about defunct—and, the official said, the Bolsonaro administering is aggravating to block allotment for attention N.G.O.s.

This summer, aback fires in the Amazon admiring scrutiny, Bolsonaro claimed that N.G.O.s had set them in adjustment to discredit his administration. On Brazil’s far right, it is an commodity of acceptance that N.G.O.s are conspiring with alfresco admiral to appropriate ascendancy of the Amazon. In São Paulo, a Bolsonaro adviser alleged Dom Bertrand de Orléans e Bragança told me that environmentalists were affiliated to a Communist insurgency, saying, “Greens are the new Reds.” (A brood of Brazil’s aftermost emperor, he is appointed to accompany Steve Bannon this ages at a aldermanic audition on the environment.) This affectionate of allocution exacerbates a attitude of abhorrence adjoin anyone who resists mineral extraction. N.G.O. workers in the arena accession the archetype of Zé Cláudio, an environmentalist in Pará, who was murdered, alternating with his wife, in 2011. Several of them explained that they generally accustomed threats, and had amorphous to bind their movements in the countryside. The official told me, “The Kayapo accommodate a acceptable archetype of how attention is an absolute war.”

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Just alfresco the Kayapo assets is a bar congenital in a roadside shack, with a jukebox and a brace of cloth-sided rooms, breadth prostitutes absorb prospectors who assignment in the reserve. At the admission to Turedjam, accession berth serves as a bodega and a blow house; the audience I saw there were consistently non-Kayapo, blind out, alienated eye contact. My hosts anesthetized by afterwards acknowledging the abode at all.

I asked Belém whether the Kayapo were anxious about accepting so abounding strangers in their midst. How did they apperceive who was trustworthy? Belém batten cautiously, but he accustomed that aegis and assurance were issues. The Kayapo had appointed men to agreement that the prospectors paid a fair commission, but there were suspicions that some adeptness be cheating their own communities. He mentioned a contempo rumor that a prospector had begin a behemothic gold nugget, belief forty-six pounds, and hadn’t paid a commission. “We were told it was a myth,” Belém said. “Later, we begin out it was true.” The prospectors were sometimes violent, Belém added. The Kayapo women didn’t go alone into the backwoods to autumn food, and the men took affliction to accompany a accomplice aback venturing alfresco Turedjam.

The abandon of the gold abridgement active the Kayapo, but Ourilândia’s white affiliation admired it as normal. Everyone I batten to accustomed that the Brazilian accompaniment was weak, and that vigilantism was necessary. “Criminals who pop up about actuality tend to end up dead,” Cleber, the lawyer, told me with a smile. At the abundance I visited with João Guerra, an agent alleged Patricia Soffa mentioned in the canteen that the bounded badge had asleep three criminosos the day before. The official adaptation was that the badge had been angled off about the area of their cover and gone to arrest them. Aback they arrived, the abyss had amorphous shooting, so the badge had accursed back, killing them all. It articulate a little pat, I remarked, and asked, “So, they activated la ley de fuga?” The “law of escape” is a delicacy that Latin-American badge use for the arbitrary beheading of suspects. Soffa and the prospectors admission into acknowledging laughter.

Soffa told me that a bounded bent had afresh filmed himself murdering a man and afresh aggregate the video on amusing media. She handed me her buzz and played me the clip. It showed a man falling to the ground, twitching, and afresh the face of a teen-age boy, who smiles and says, in Portuguese, “I aloof asleep that motherfucker.” Soffa said triumphantly, “The badge bent and asleep that boy the abutting day, alternating with his friends. He was stupid. Now he’s dead.”

At a restaurant one evening, a man and a adolescent babe in pigtails absolved over to my table. The man, a comfortable-looking Brazilian in his backward thirties, affably alien himself and said that his babe was acquirements English. Would I apperception exchanging a few words with her? I agreed, and in several account of ardent chat I abstruse that the ancestor was an architect for the Vale mining consortium, and that the ancestors had visited the United States seven times, to go to Disney World. “She loves Disney,” he said, attractive at his babe indulgently.

A bisected hour later, the babe alternate to my table with her mother. The mother explained that they had appear to Ourilândia because of her husband’s work, and they admired it. “It’s like the Brazil of the eighties,” she gushed. “We can beddy-bye with the doors and windows open. The kids can comedy in the streets, and you don’t acquire to anguish about them. You can’t alive like this in São Paulo anymore.” I asked her why Ourilândia was so safe. She replied, “If anyone does article bent about here, we aloof annihilate them.” She fabricated a acid action with her hands. Her babe giggled.

Iolanda, a assistant at the dispensary in Turedjam, had formed amid the Kayapo for years, affective from adjustment to settlement. During our conversations, she batten of Kendjam, an alone apple at the affection of the assets that had banned prospecting and logging. She declared it as a affectionate of utopia. I should go, she said, if I basal to see a abode that hadn’t been broke by gold fever.

Flying there, I anesthetized over an about absolutely ceaseless mural of agrarian forest. At one point, I spotted a diamond-shaped clearing—all that remained of a beasts agronomical that Tutu Pombo had carved out of the boscage and afresh abandoned. A division aeon later, the copse had not developed back.

Kendjam sat alongside a glass-clear river, the Irirí, with a dozen acceptable houses abutting to a grass aerodrome and a red bedrock accumulation bulging several hundred all-overs aloft the treetops. At a baby architecture that served as a bloom dispensary and a radio-communications post, I was greeted by Pukatire, the arch of Kendjam, a tall, attenuate man with continued gray beard and a wry faculty of humor.

Pukatire was borderline absolutely aback he was born, but he anticipation he was “around seventy-two.” He had developed up bravo, he said—the Portuguese chat for wild. Aback he was about ten years old, the Kayapo were contacted by white outsiders. Pukatire recalled that affection had spread, and abounding of the Kayapo had died. Missionaries came next, accouterment medical affliction and establishing a mission school, breadth Pukatire had abstruse Portuguese and a little English. (As he translated the Kayapo chat for bravo, he active an English phrase. “No-good boys,” he said, and laughed.) He had addicted memories of the missionaries but had abstruse to abhorrence and disbelief best added whites. In one of his aboriginal memories, he was in the dupe with his uncle and his accessory aback elastic tappers sneaked up and fatally attempt his uncle. His accessory had asleep two of the white men with his bow and arrow.

Pukatire was afraid about Bolsonaro’s alarm to accessible affluence to development. “If prospectors appear actuality to analyze for gold, we’re action to lose,” he said. “The whites are the alone ones who win at that.” Pukatire grumbled about adolescent Kayapo demography up white action styles. “That aisle is a afflicted one,” he said. “If the Indian leaves his affiliation and does white things, like acid his hair, bubbler alcohol, bond his claret with that of the whites, and accident his traditions, he loses everything.” He visited added Kayapo settlements to acquaint about these risks, but beneath bodies listened these days; added than a third of the villages in the eastern allotment of the assets acquire succumbed to gold mining.

Every afternoon, the accouchement of Kendjam aggregate in the baptize of the Irirí, bedlam and splashing. During my visit, I abutting a adolescent man alleged Ikatipe, his wife, and their two teen-age daughters on an circuit upriver, in a baiter with an outboard motor attached. The river was an irised blue, and the backwoods was complete all around. On sandbanks, we saw the advance of tapirs and ample turtles. Parrots and parakeets and macaws flew overhead. Afterwards a brace of hours, we pulled up to a bouldered shore, and Ikatipe’s ancestors went off into the backwoods accustomed baskets with straps, like backpacks. They alternate burdened with hard-shelled fruits from cumaru trees, which the bounded Kayapo sell, alternating with Brazil nuts, through a coöperative set up with advice from an N.G.O. (A British company, Lush, makes soap from the seeds of their cumaru.)

That afternoon, while his wife formed fruits to abstract the seeds, Pukatire sat in a hammock, abstraction a war club. Years before, he recalled, he had visited a alternation of European capitals to allege about the plight of the Amazon. He would like to return, but he couldn’t leave Brazil, because authorities said that there was an outstanding accreditation for his arrest, for the annihilation of a kuben. He threw up his calmly with a addled expression. He had never asleep a white man, he said. He had asleep an Indian, but continued ago. It had occurred afterwards the Kayapo confused into the breadth of the Panará aboriginal group, and the Panará began raiding their acreage plots and burglary their bananas. A alternation of skirmishes asleep several Panará and abounding Kayapo, including Pukatire’s mother. On a animus mission, Pukatire asleep a Panará man. His affair additionally kidnapped four children, one of whom he had aloft as his daughter. “She is developed up today, a Kayapo,” he said.

A beat-up shotgun afraid from a pole in Pukatire’s hut, and a bow was buried in the rafters, alternating with a array of arrows. He explained that arrows fabricated from a stingray’s affront were best for killing jaguars, tapirs, and people, while abate ones of approach copse were ideal for fish, birds, and monkeys. Pukatire had spent abounding years casual on his ability to Kayapo youngsters up and bottomward the river. But aback I asked if they were still gluttonous him out he befuddled his head. Staring into his biconcave hands, he said, mockingly, “Only corpuscle phones.”

Glenn Shepard, the ethnobotanist, believes that the Kayapo in Turedjam are accident their acceptable way of life, their aegis and autonomy. “The aperture they opened a able has now opened wide, creating a bearings they can’t control,” he said. “They can see what it’s doing—the backwoods it’s destroyed, the bodies it has killed. But it gives them admission to money—and greater clout, or so they believe, abnormally with added Indian communities.”

Shepard mentioned the Xikrin, a group, accompanying to the Kayapo, whose assets is affluent in nickel. In the eighties, Vale began mining there, advantageous millions of dollars in compensation. The Xikrin bound became the wealthiest Indians in the Pará state. “Before long, the Xikrin were throwing big parties, and agreeable the Kayapo to appear as guests,” Shepard said. “They alike accountant backcountry planes to fly in crates of soda pop.” Such displays of wealth, he explained, aggressive a bounded appearance of aggressive consumption.

For Admiral Bolsonaro, gold prospectors serve as a attribute of the country’s avant-garde spirit—much as West Virginia atramentous miners do for Trump.

No beneath than the association of Rio, or of Park Slope, the aboriginal bodies of the Amazon were acceptable their actual needs at the amount of nature. “The Kayapo don’t absolutely apperceive what ‘development’ is, but they do acquire a admiration for cash, for things like boats, guns, and corpuscle phones,” Zimmerman said. “Any Kayapo will acquaint you, ‘We absolutely appetite to assure our land, we don’t appetite the miners and loggers to appear in—but we charge cash.’ ” Zimmerman collaborates with several Brazilian N.G.O.s to devise sustainable-development affairs for the Kayapo—mostly agriculture basics but additionally active a fishing affected for ecotourists. A majority of the communities they assignment with, apery conceivably bisected the Kayapo, are acceptable self-sustaining. But Adriano Jerozolimski, the arch of the N.G.O. Floresta Protegida, told me, “It takes a while to anatomy a acceptable abridgement from Brazil basics and cumaru—and it’s adamantine to attempt with the money that comes from gold.”

In ways, the Kayapo of Turedjam were alone amid the kuben apple and their own traditions. The aboriginal arresting change, afterwards the mining started, was the tin-roofed houses; in Mro’ô’s time, the apple had absitively to alter the acceptable palm-thatch huts, which rats had invaded because there was beneath surrounding forest. Their houses still acquire clay floors and no partitions inside; the Kayapo beddy-bye in hammocks strung about an accessible space. But electricity from the Ourilândia filigree has accustomed them to install televisions, on which they watch array shows and soccer matches. There is additionally a baby Pentecostal church—an accretion cardinal of Kayapo acquire converted—and the clinic.

At the bend of Turedjam was a affectionate of assessment booth, breadth a braiding barrier had been strung aloft the road, so that a Kayapo ancestors could abstract a fee from prospectors casual through. During my aftermost visit, the armpit was abandoned, and the apple about empty. I abstruse that a ample accumulation of Kayapo had gone to a affair on the Xikrin reserve, while accession had gone to appear an evangelical jamboree. At the clinic, I batten with Iolanda, the nurse, who came in from the burghal three weeks a month. She said that she batten with the Kayapo women about sex, drugs, and added bloom issues, and approved to brainwash basal hygiene, such as abrasion calmly and putting debris in bankrupt containers. The accident of ache was archetypal of areas breadth backwoods was cleared, she suggested: a little malaria and a little TB. What was worse was the cultural transformation. The Turedjam Kayapo had absent absorption in their acceptable diet and amorphous to eat added candy food, and some were adversity from digestive problems. “They acquire larboard their adeptness aside,” she said. Some of the men additionally drank, she said, and the affiliation showed “signs of abstract consumption, in aggregate from electronics to clothes and food. They are acceptable abased on the customer action appearance of the white world.”

In Turedjam one morning, Belém told me about the apple school, accustomed six years earlier. Four canicule a week, he accomplished Portuguese, math, geography, and history; one day was adherent to the Kayapo language. He was aided by four non-indigenous teachers, provided by the government, and by several bounded monitors and translators. The adolescent accouchement seemed to be thriving, but the academy chock-full at the sixth grade, so able acceptance went on to abstraction in Ourilândia. They didn’t do absolute able-bodied there, he said, because they didn’t acquire the account of the monitors and the translators who had helped them in primary school. But that wasn’t the better problem. Aftermost year, one of the Kayapo boys had bought a motorbike in Ourilândia. Aback he was clumsy to accumulate up the payments, the aloft buyer had assassin a hit man to accompany him. The analgesic had aboveboard appear to Turedjam and stabbed the boy to death. The added students’ parents, terrified, withdrew their accouchement from the school.

For the bounded Kayapo, the killing was a acrid admonition of the adversity of all-around themselves to the alfresco world. Belém told me that the Kayapo acquainted discriminated adjoin whenever they went into town. Aback they visited doctors, he said, “if we go to them cutting our acceptable clothes, they won’t see us.” Pointing to the piercings in his aerial and lower lip, he said, “These piercings are our attitude and should be respected.” To fit in, he and added Kayapo men had donned kuben clothing, but that didn’t work, either, he said. “There are those who say the Indians aren’t Indians anymore, because we abrasion shirts or allege Portuguese, but that’s not true. We acquire to apprentice Portuguese to avert ourselves. I abstruse how to allege Portuguese and drive a motorbike, and I alive in a board house. But my adeptness is here”—he patted his torso. “I am an Indian. Alike admitting I alive in a board house, I can’t be a white person. Attending at my hair—it’s not curly. And my anatomy is painted!” Belém had announced in a torrent, and with arresting feeling. He paused for animation and went on. “Some white bodies appear to advise us things, and afresh added white bodies appear and say, ‘You’re not Indians anymore,’ but that’s not true. Alike Indians who alive in the burghal for years are Indians aback they appear back. You cannot about-face white.”

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Belém looked about the apple and said in a quiet voice, “This acclimated to be a abundant abode to live. Now it’s so-so. If we can get the miners out, it will be acceptable again.” ♦

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