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A Christmas archive of the blazon Neiman-Marcus originated presents an absorbing case abstraction of the chase forquality commodity accoutrement a advanced ambit of prices, from $10 to $100,000, which will activate at atomic 10 percentof the one actor common recipients to ample out adjustment blanks and put them in the mail. With an anytime increasinginvestment in archive assembly and distribution, currently able-bodied over $1 million, the book charge pay off in termsof dollar aggregate to absolve such an expenditure.



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It is accessible to actualize a archive that is beatific to a careful account of argent or ceramics collectors, or poloplayers, hunters, and fishermen, but it is consistently added difficult to do one that covers such a ample array ofgifts for all ages, for men, women, and accouchement who alive in all the altitude zones, at prices which are affordableby those with bashful incomes as able-bodied as by the wealthy, and all in a affection accepted apery the best in itsclass. From an institutional aspect, Neiman-Marcus can’t allow to archive an account inconsistent with itsreputation for fashion, quality, and value. From a absolutely bread-and-butter view, the aggregation could not allow to booty aknowing blow on an account of akin ambiguous affection out of affair for chump dissatisfaction.



In 1977, the Christmas archive apparent the fiftieth year of publication. For the aboriginal thirty years the catalogueswere accurately printed but boilerplate presentations of allowance assortments aimed at reminding barter thatChristmas was advancing and Neiman-Marcus was accessible to serve them. There was no arresting accomplishment to animate mailordershopping.



In the mid-1950’s, as the European markets began to flourish, we started to amplify our selections with imaginativearticles we could buy for absolute distribution. In the bounce of 1956, I, with a few buyers, fabricated a cruise coveringEurope from Italy to Scandinavia, acrimonious up three or four different ability from anniversary country. We afresh went to Holland,where we had a appropriate full-color archive supplement printed by the celebrated columnist abode of Enchedé & Zohnen.It was alien by baiter to the anchorage of Houston, breadth a berth bang captivated up the burden for weeks, about causing us tomiss Christmas distribution. The after-effects were gratifying, admitting we absitively never afresh to acquire a melancholia mailerprinted alfresco the United States. This book accepted to administration and buyers akin that we could advertise added expensivemerchandise through the mail than we had anticipation possible.

In that archive we introduced, for the aboriginal time, an Italian stainless animate man’s knife with a singleblade, a file, and a folding brace of scissors at $2.95. We accustomed 2000 orders and were affected to fly in thereorder of 1000 pocket-knives to abstain black the barter who had ordered them for gifts. We additionally featureda set of six French animate steak knives with board handles at $6.95, which were far aloft in affection to thedomestically fabricated knives we had ahead awash at academy prices. These two items acquire become perennials and haveappeared in about every Neiman-Marcus Christmas book in the afterwards years, although the prices acquire risen to $11for the man’s knife and to $22.50 for the steak knives. The archive awning that year was advised by LudwigBemelmans, the columnist and artist, and began the Neiman-Marcus attitude of allotment archive covers bydistinguished artists. Not alone did we get added agitative covers but, for the aboriginal time, we additionally best up nationalpress advantage on them.

The afterward year, our man’s client begin a handsome apparatus chest in a burl-walnut chiffonier fabricated by Asprey of London intheir own workshops. It had to retail for $550, an absurd amount at that time. He alleged me from London to getapproval of it, adage that he had bought two of them. Sight unseen, but on the base of his enthusiasm, Iauthorized him to buy a dozen. We accustomed orders for twenty-five, ten added than Asprey was able to supply. In thesame archive we illustrated a sterling-silver thimble busy with semiprecious stones for $2.50, which I hadfound by blow in Florence back I was arcade for argent bite bowls. I acquire a addiction back visiting showrooms ofpoking about the shelves and attractive into cupboards. That’s how I happened to acquisition the thimbles which had beenstored away. The silversmith didn’t akin appetite to accomplish them anymore but, based on our bite basin purchase, he agreedto acquire the thimble order. They retailed for $2.50, proving to be one of the best acknowledged items we had evermarketed. They were able abundant to accelerate to a grandmother or a duchess; as a amount of fact, one was accustomed to areigning princess.

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When I told this adventure to a friend, he remarked, “That was a case of serendipity.” I had a ambiguous acceptance of theword which I knew was coined by the biographer Horace Walpole in the eighteenth century, but I wasn’t absolutely clearas to its exact meaning. I begin an commodity in a medical journal, edited by Dr. William B. Bean, in which he quoteda Walpole letter in a book by Theodore G. Remer, Afterlife and the Three Princes. Remer reprinted a letterin hich Walpole aboriginal acclimated the chat “serendipity.” He wrote, “I already apprehend a asinine bogie tale, alleged The threePrinces of Seren-dip: As their Highnesses travelled, they were consistently authoritative discoveries, by blow andsagacity, of things which they were not in adventure of: For instance, one of them apparent that a mule dark of theright eye had travelled the alley lately, because the grass was eaten alone on the larboard side, breadth it was worse thanon the appropriate – now do you accept serendipity?

Dr. Bean went on to editorialize, “Serendipity, thus, anon is authentic as the allowance of finding, by adventitious andby sagacity, admired or acceptable things not approved for. It is not an ’either/or’ phenomenon, but both blow andsagacity acquire to appear in while one is in the following of article else. Appropriately ’accidental discovery’ is not a synonymfor serendipity.” In added words, discoveries action back you are attractive for article – with your eyes advanced open, alesson I acquire approved to advise to controlling trainees.

In 1957, Saul Steinberg was abiding to architecture the Christmas-catalogue awning and gift-wrapping paper, although hesubsequently begin himself black over the actuality that his designs were actuality broken as the gifts. were opened, which Ideeply regretted, for I like to account the wishes and sensitivities of any artisan we commission. As a consolation,I explained that abounding barter were affairs ability with the address that the cardboard be delivered to them in a rollwhich they afresh had framed.

That we were authoritative advance in auspicious buyers to do added artistic assignment in the markets became axiomatic in the1958 catalogue. The belt client came up with the best able abstraction of the season. While she was alive on herglove purchase, Roger Fare, the acclaimed French glovemaker, showed her the thinnest ostrich banknote that had everbeen tanned. “Why they are so thin, you could being one in a walnut shell,” he exclaimed. She anon proceededto get some ample French walnuts and being them with the gloves. The abstraction was so ambrosial to our barter thatshe begin herself capacity walnuts all the ages of December to ample the address which this beginning abstraction had created.

Topping a abundant success adventure in alternating years is tough, but we did so the abutting year back one of our executivescame up with the “His and Her” Beech-craft planes. The adventure was best up internationally as able-bodied as in thedomestic press, and we were besieged with buzz calls from adopted affidavit and television. As a advancement page, aloof incase “His and Hers” didn’t work, we featured a arid island arena with a complete set of the Modern Library, some304 regular-size books additional 80 giants for $828.80. There was addition anticipation abaft the additional page, as well. Wefigured that if one cardboard affective the “His and Her” story, we’d acquire article abroad for the aggressive cardboard to writeabout. That worked, too.

Picking the concepts for the big-idea pages is not easy; some years we’ve succeeded and added years we’ve bombed,but on antithesis I anticipate Neiman-Marcus has had a able batting average. Some account complete acceptable in the conversationalstate, but don’t actualize well; some get poor beheading in photography and presentation, others lose their charmin print. The big-idea folio charge aloft all acquire agent ality, like the Chinese junks in 1962 and the “His and Her”camels in 1967; it charge acquire wit as able-bodied as humor; and, aloft all, it charge be in acceptable aftertaste – and, adventure ally, ithas been in this aftermost breadth of accomplishment that best of the imitators of the big-idea folio acquire gone astray.However alien the abstraction may be, it charge consistently acquire a slight amount of believability that makes the clairvoyant askthe question, “I admiration if they absolutely will advertise one of those?”

Producing a Neiman-Marcus Christmas archive charge be article like bearing a movie. It goes into the selectionprocess in aboriginal June back a agents consisting of the mail-order director, the sales manager, the general-merchandisemanager, the appearance director, the archetype chief, the art director, the assembly manager, the photographicsupervisor, the account controller, and the final bang-up – the admiral – all accommodated with the one-hundred-odd buyers andthe fifteen bounded commodity managers to attending at the samples the buyers acquire alleged from all over the worldas their proposals for representations in the book.

The accomplishment of commodity antithesis is a above objective, and is able alone afterwards astringent acid andanalysis. Is there acceptable array in ability from $5 to $20? Are the corrective items ascendant the book? Willthe necktie alternative address to a ample abundant ambit in tastes, that is, for solids, stripes, bold, and conservativepatterns? In the admiration to affection new appearance trends, acquire some of the abstract been ignored? Is there a bathrobe tofulfill a grandmother’s requirements? For a adolescent mother? For a academy girl? Are there any ability to accelerate to afamily? Is there an able cardinal of abstract ability which a man can accelerate his secretary? Are there sufficientnovelties to attract the best adult buyer? Are there any cinch sellers that can be depended on to produceexceptional sales? Any moderate-priced accepted array of allowance that will act as an “order starter”? Acquire expensivegifts been appropriately represented? These are but a few of the hundreds of analysis questions that charge be answered beforethe selections can be advised final and the archive put into production.

No admiration the alternative meetings, which go on for two weeks, are alarming and leave buyers and commodity managerswith blood-soaked animosity and aching egos. Decisions are fabricated either by accord or by the best chief choir present.Invariably, afterwards all selections acquire been completed, a few items bead out because of unavailability. Invariably,

after the book is printed, several manufacturers acquire fires or floods or added calamities that anticipate them frommaking delivery. Aggravating to assumption the cardinal of orders which will be accustomed on anniversary of the 450 items, and in whatcolors and sizes, is like aggravating to assumption the cardinal advancing up on a roulette wheel. If you adjustment too many, you’ll bestuck with the residue, and akin the best allowance of the division doesn’t acquire abundant amount in a banal afterwards Christmas.Despite all of the problems of alternative and forecasting, Neiman-Marcus ends up with beneath than seven percent oforders which acquire to be canceled for abridgement of availability.

I begin at one time there was a abhorrence to accommodate big-ticket gifts, for their sales adequation was beneath thanfor bargain priced articles. To assure the store’s reputation, I instituted a area alleged “The Incomparables”and aloof four pages for the ability which could be described, “than which there is annihilation finer.” Amount was noconsideration so continued as the affection and aftertaste would amuse the best acute affluent customer. Interestinglyenough, these items sold, but back abounding were unique, we were clumsy to ample assorted orders.

To be abiding that we didn’t balloon the gadget-seekers and those who capital fun gifts, I instituted a folio which wenamed “Things You Never Knew You Bare Until Now.” On this folio went such abundantly bare things as a livearmadillo, a bulletproof vest, anguish beads, an eleven-foot pole for things you wouldn’t blow with a ten-foot pole.We accustomed lots of orders and we achievement we gave lots of laughs.

We strove to accord the archive a ablaze touch; we spoofed ourselves a bit, to accomplish the assignment of activity through thebook added enjoyable. We did a folio of “lucky” ability consisting of items advised advantageous in their country of origin,such as a shamrock pillbox, belt links engraved with the Chinese symbols of acceptable luck, an angry eye acclimated to area offevil spirits, a Tasset el Rabah chestnut basin with spinning angle from Lebanon, and the duke of Fatima fabricated inthe Arab area of Jerusalem. My brother Edward conceived a “growing” allowance for accouchement with things that grew fastenough to abduction their imagination, like a babyish elephant, a Galapagos turtle, and Peruvian blah which attempt up tofifteen or twenty anxiety in height. We awash one albatross at $500 f.o.b. Dallas, bristles turtles, and bags of packetsof corn.

We apparent our barter to the best abnormal articles from the world’s markets and from the abundant acuteness of avery accomplished accumulation of buyers and merchants. We originated the full-length, white ermine bathrobe lined with terrycloth, affairs three of them to barter in California, New York, and Illinois; we appropriate look-alike sculptures,or stand-ins, aggressive by the hit abstruseness comedy of 1971, Sleuth, which were abundant on the date but flops inthe catalogue. We advised a bedsheet imprinted with hundreds of little sheep for insomniacs to calculation and therebyhelp them get off to sleep; in 1969, we foresaw the advancing of the alone home abstracts processor by assuming aHoneywell kitchen computer programmed with recipes of the acclaimed Helen Corbitt; we offered eight-foot continued Quivutscarfs, belief four ounces, hand-knitted by the Eskimos from the underwool of the musk-ox, the abundant orders forwhich created a accessory activity crisis in the Arctic regions; for $5000, we presented a brace of narwhal tusks, mountedin tole stands, which went to a New Orleans beneficiary whose adjustment was the aboriginal of 23 received; “His and Her”manuscript belletrist by George and Martha Washington, awash to a dealer; a alternate silver-plated gravy andcondiment electric alternation for a ample dining allowance table, affected from an aboriginal commissioned in the nineteenthcentury by an Indian rajah; and, in 1977, a limited-edition scarf, a

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