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Kohl’s, one of the US’s better accouterment retailers, annulled millions of dollars account of absolute orders from Bangladeshi and Korean accoutrement factories aloof weeks afore advantageous out $109m (£85m) in assets to shareholders, the Guardian can reveal.

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The aggregation annulled orders of accouterment account about $100m from Korea and $50m from Bangaldeshi factories afterwards the Covid-19 communicable struck, and banned petitions from suppliers allurement for the advantage to renegotiate payments. 

The accouterment companies say that Kohl’s appear its accommodation to abolish all orders it had already placed with its all-around suppliers in a appointment alarm on 22 March. They say the US aggregation acted unilaterally afterwards consulting or negotiating with suppliers, some of which accept been accomplishing business with Kohl’s for added than 20 years. Kohl’s additionally furloughed 85,000 US agents and shuttered its 1,159 stores.

On 1 April, Kohl’s, which is account $2.16bn, paid out $109m in assets to shareholders.

Kohl’s did not acknowledge to the Guardian’s appeal for comment.

Rubana Huq, admiral of the Bangladesh Accoutrement Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), said that agnate accomplishments by brands has already led to bags of accoutrement workers accident their jobs and factories closing. 

According to the BGMEA, up to 500,000 workers could lose their jobs in June if commitments to pay for ordered banal that was in assembly back the catching addled are not honoured.

“Brands like Kohl’s say they affliction about workers, and use their big name to allocution about ethical sourcing. But it is a lie,” said Kalpona Akter, the architect of the Bangladesh Centre for Artisan Solidarity, a abutment organisation acknowledging accoutrement workers. “They abolish orders and debris to pay for orders produced. Back we charge them most, they about-face their backs. They charge to do the appropriate thing. They charge to pay their bills.”

In a letter to Kohl’s controlling lath apparent by the Guardian, the Korean Federation of Textile Industries has additionally appealed to Kohl’s to honour its absolute acceding with suppliers and not use “force majeure” clauses in affairs to abstain advantageous for accouterment already fabricated and accessible to ship.

Kohl’s is a behemoth amid administration abundance retailers in the US. It has remained assisting in a time back competitors such as JC Penney and Sears accept slipped into bankruptcy. Between 2017 and 2019, Kohl’s paid assets to its shareholders account $1.2bn. As able-bodied as affairs from suppliers in Bangladesh and Korea, Kohl’s sources accouterment from added countries including Haiti, Vietnam and India.

Scott Nova from the Artisan Rights Consortium (WRC), said that Kohl’s accomplishments were alike to corruption and apparent the huge ability alterity in the all-around accoutrement accumulation chain 

“Kohl’s puts a grossly biased abandoning article in its acquirement agreements, acceptance it to cancel, and debris to pay [suppliers] back it decides to,” he said.

 “[The company] has banned to pay for accoutrement that it ordered and that workers accept already made, but the aggregation somehow begin a $100m to accolade shareholders. It’s adamantine not to anticipate of these accomplishments as annihilation added than a anatomy of robbery.”

Bangladesh relies on the accoutrement industry for added than 80% of its exports and its 4,000 factories apply 4 actor people, abounding of whom are distinct mothers and adolescent women. 

Known for its “fast fashion” turnout, Bangladesh has been abominably hit by the bread-and-butter fallout from Covid-19. Exports plummeted 84% in the aboriginal bisected of April, with $3.18bn-worth of orders annulled or suspended.

One worker, Hasina, who formed in a branch bartering Kohl’s, is abundant and absent her job in April. 

“They accursed me in the aforementioned way they accursed my added abundant colleague,” she said. “They did not pay us our wages, advantage or benefit, which I was owed afterwards six years alive there. The branch told us brands accept annulled or abeyant appurtenances that were accessible to deliver. 

“I accept accustomed all my activity authoritative clothes for actual low wages. Manufacturers and appearance brands can accumulation off the clothes, but cipher cares for us back we are suffering.”

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Last Updated: June 19th, 2020 by admin
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