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Tao Yuan, chef Cara Stadler’s Brunswick restaurant, may be bankrupt for the summer, but it is still busy.
WHAT: Zao Ze CaféWHERE: 22 Pleasant Street, Brunswick; tao-yuan.me or @zaozemaine, (207) 725-9002WHEN: 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday; takeout and alfresco dining; WAIT: Orders accessible at appointed analeptic times.PARKING: Limited parking on site.WHAT ELSE: Full-service alfresco dining and Friday and Saturday artery aliment banquet alternation advancing soon.
Stadler is application the kitchen to adapt a new card of Asian artery aliment for a pop-up alleged Zao Ze Café. The afflatus for the new place, which appearance takeout and alfresco dining only, is the artery aliment she’s sampled on her abounding trips to Asia, as able-bodied as her grandmother’s cooking.
After a anniversary spent mostly indoors, I was acquisitive to get out, so I took a little alley cruise up to Brunswick on the weekend that Stadler captivated her bendable aperture of the café. I pre-ordered (which, in this case, agency agreement the adjustment the aforementioned day you’re activity to aces it up) and pre-paid for my aliment on the Tao Yuan website, and because the prices are not bad – the best big-ticket account is shrimp absurd rice for $13.88 – I ordered a lot so I could sample a array of dishes. I apparently wouldn’t adjustment so abundant the abutting time, but it was fun to try so abounding things that were absolutely new to me. I advance demography a acquaintance with you so you can breach aggregate and still get to sample a lot.
When I accustomed at the restaurant, I put on my affectation and headed through the advanced aperture to the little antechamber breadth the analeptic happens. Face coverings are required, unless you’re sitting at one of the alfresco tables. The alfresco dining breadth consists of several nice, white annular tables for adults and a few adorable, bright tables – complete with tiny stools – for kids.
The card is breach into cold, hot, broiled and absurd goods, and desserts. I skipped the algid menu, although abutting time I would like to try the Smoked Craven Rou Jia Mo, the Chinese agnate of a hamburger, which originated in the Shaanxi Province. Stadler’s adaptation is fabricated with smoked chicken, pickled goji berries, access vinegar, cilantro, scallion and serrano sambal aioli.
I approved the Jian Bing ($6.88), a agreeable Chinese ache that Stadler had told me about already during an interview. It’s a accepted artery aliment in which crepes are bankrupt about accolade eggs with cilantro, scallions, hoisin and chili paste. Add some brittle wonton for crunch, and you accept breakfast.
Other foods I sampled included the You Tiao ($1.58 for two pieces), which are Chinese duckfat donuts with bristles aroma – affectionate of like Chinese churros – and the egg acerb custard assurance ($2.58 each), which are donuts abounding with Chinese custard.
I acknowledge the custard assurance were my favorite, not because they were ambrosia (they are not ever candied like American donuts) but because the aggressive textures blew my mind. They were chewy, brittle and adhesive all at the aforementioned time.
This is the affectionate of abode breadth you’ll appetite to eat about the menu, so I apprehend added alley trips in my future. I absolutely appetite to try that smoked craven Rou Jia Mo ($10.88), the shrimp absurd rice, the appearance and paneer potstickers ($9.88 for five), and the bun adornment (pork, sausage/pea shoot/egg, beet paneer, and red bean amber for $8.88).
This Thursday and Friday, from 5 to 8 p.m., Stadler will be confined a Korean artery aliment banquet at the café. The banquet is $48 per person, or $38 per being for a vegetarian version. Reservations are appropriate (phone only), and aliment will be served ancestors style. If it rains, the aliment will be arranged up to go and accessible for auto amid 5 and 6 p.m.
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