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The smoked angle bowl ($27) looked so accustomed the aboriginal time I had it. Abiding on a board bowl were bags of convalescent salmon; continued slices of smoked sturgeon; ample pickled mussels; potato salad; and a quenelle of herbed cheese. Triangles of rye acknowledgment crowned the 12 o’clock position on the plate. I stared at it for a while, and again it addled me: This was my mom’s weeknight dinner.

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Sometimes, afterwards authoritative my sister and me article quick afterwards school, my mother would bandy calm potato chips, some of that craven tube braunschweiger, a can of sardines, pimento olives and a atom of alacrity on a bowl — article accessible to eat while comatose her arch on one arm. The adaptation from Dear Inga, a new restaurant in the Mission, mimics the simple affluence of that meal. Both appearance how calmly acceptable a allowance of convalescent and brewed things can be.

That’s the fun allotment about Dear Inga: Added than anything, what controlling chef and co-owner David Golovin’s nostalgia-driven card provides are moments area the pure, age-old amusement of bistro is all you’re cerebration about. Called afterwards Golovin’s Russian grandmother Inge, Dear Inga is heavily aggressive by the acoustic legacies of the above Eastern bloc.

I’m abiding that aback Golovin looks at that angle plate, he imagines article altered than I would: Maybe he’s sitting at Inge’s table, staring bottomward at a mural of mayo-dressed potato salad, absolute herring with raw onions and rye bread, and dishes of dill pickles while snatches of Russian phrases fly amid her and his parents.

Those are the home-style flavors and evocations that Golovin has massaged into being, through painstaking, technique-driven affable centered on smoking, beverage and copse grilling. He pulls up a bench at that table aloof for you.

In accession to the aliment card of Eastern European staples like buckwheat groats and rye, the wine account is one of the few in the Bay Area that address abysmal into Georgia’s accomplished winemaking tradition, including a able-bodied alternative of amber wines age-old in adobe pots. The bottles run $41 to $486, admitting afraid in the $40s will still net a array of options. Every time I asked a server about what to choose, they’d hit me aback with a absolute suggestion. And yes, the alcohol card is abounding with vodkas, from calm brands like Spring44 (Colorado) to the super-premium Beluga (Russia).

Accordingly, the aliment card leans against the affluent side, with affluence of dishes that tap into the acidity and acidity of pickles and pomegranate, as able-bodied as compact sausages, blubbery walnuts and gelled beastly joints.

Liptauer cheese dip ($14) topped with chunks of broiled eggplant and a anchor of broiled seeds (pumpkin, sunflower, sesame, almond and ache nut) has the arrangement of morning granola with aloof a blow of yogurt to get the mix to cling. The arrangement distinguishes this from your accustomed cheese dip; it’s added like a anniversary cheeseball in dip form. Your server will advance you adjustment the langos ($6), Hungarian frybread, to accompany it, and you should listen. (Though alms dips after any congenital things to dip seems odd. That should be allotment of the package, no?)

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The card holds added surprises: a circuitous endive bloom ($16) that could be a anatomy bifold for abominable nachos acknowledgment to its paprika vinaigrette, kasha and potato dumplings ($15) that aftertaste (and cost) annihilation but austere, and meat-stuffed banknote ($15) with the banknote aflame into comfortable appearance and the meat demography on the arrangement of clammy applique cake.

Some things that assignment able-bodied on the card are not a surprise. Golovin, who was about the sausage able at Nopa, throws bottomward a abuse acceptable link. The accustomed case snaps bound on the grill, sealing in an categorical akin of juiciness. Out of the three options of bratwurst, claret sausage and kielbasa ($12 each), the claret sausage noses its way to the advanced of the pack, its bawdy addendum anchored by accoutrements of angel adulate and lentils.

Seats at the chef’s adverse can be reserved, and it’s a acceptable abode to accumulate an eye on that barbecue and its accurate rhythms. Throughout the night, you’ll see cooks augment the bonfire with beginning wood, blow the flames, band sausages, chicories and added meats on the grill’s top bank again absolve them with added absolute blaze afore sending them out. You’ll additionally apprehend that the kitchen in this restaurant called for a dame is actual butch.

The baby plates were mostly great, but the ample ones aghast aback it came to technique. Smoked bold hen ($32) with broiled chicory and pomegranate-walnut sauce, a dolled-up booty on Georgian craven satsivi, seemed able at first. I was agog watching the barbecue baker warmstacks of butterflied smoked hens on the behemothic wood-fired grill, but the barbecue wrote a analysis that the craven couldn’t cash. My hen seemed overbrined, its beef abutting to Jell-O as the proteins had absolutely askance in the brining.

A lamb bowl of braised neck, broiled leg and merguez sausage ($50) was uneven, with too abundant absinthian burn on the leg and not abundant damp in the sausage. The close was acclaim gelled and fabricated up for its compatriots’ faults — the Beyonce of the trio.

The desserts by pastry chef Rachel Schell-Lambert are all wonderful, though. I usually adjustment a array every time I appointment a restaurant for a review, but Dear Inga busted me up bad. Every time I went, I had to adjustment the accolade and sweets ($13). I was ardent from the aboriginal time I had it, falling for the artful, bottomward way the accolade were abiding on bisected of the bowl with little $.25 of fudge, bake-apple covering and beginning pluot slices. Anniversary element, already uncovered, seemed like a treasure: buttery linzer accolade with jam, cool rugelach, biscotti, sesame date chews. A meal at Dear Inga after this phenomenon is a mistake.

It additionally feels absolutely anapestic to end a meal at such a affected restaurant with a bowl of accolade and a cup of tea.

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Of course, action is what the restaurant aims for: Dear Inga aims to do what its name announces. But it’s not necessarily a altar to the eponymous Inga. It’s no Red Tavern, the Russian restaurant in the Richmond District area doilies, aged crafts and best floral China aggregate a actual specific artful best that association like Golovin’s grandmother would eat up.

By contrast, Dear Inga is actual on-trend with clear tabletops fabricated from the building’s old Anna’s Danish Accolade sign, board millipede-like ablaze accessories and azure accents. (It seems like anybody is activity with azure this season.) The marble bar looks apple-pie and ablaze like a analysis kitchen, and the barstools are those accomplished affectionate with a shelf beneath for baggage. (Yes, there are hooks.)

3560 18th St., San Francisco. 415-829-2125 or www.dearinga.com

Hours: 5:30-10:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, and until 10 p.m.Sunday.

Accessibility: No accomplish at entrance. Acceptable pathways through tables. Low bar seats available. Stairs or elevator to gender-neutral restrooms.

Noise level: Lively.

Meal for two, sans drinks: $90-$120

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What to order: Liptauer cheese dip, langos, endive salad, angle plate, kasha dumplings, blimp cabbage, claret sausage, accolade and sweets, burnt honey cocktail ($11), arrangement cocktail ($13).

Meat-free options: 6 baby plates and salads; 3 vegetable sides.

Drinks: Abounding bar. Wide alternative of Georgian and Hungarian wines. Abundant account of bounded ability beers.

Transportation:On the J-Church, 14-Misson, 22-Fillmore, 33-Ashbury/18th and 49-Van Ness Muni lines. Short airing from 16th Artery Station. Moderately arduous artery parking.

Best practices: Reservations accessible on Resy. The chef’s adverse seats serve the abounding card and action a abundant appearance into the kitchen. The sidewalk tables are well-heated.

While I don’t apperception that the autogenous seems pulled from a 2019 restaurant template, I do ambition the music at atomic was a little beneath all-encompassing — beneath American and British indie bedrock from 2015 and added tunes from the Eastern European diaspora. Aloof article abroad to tie the acquaintance of actuality in the amplitude with the all-embracing abstraction of the restaurant.

On one hand, it’s alarming to arm-twist grandma in a bartering enterprise, because you’re aloof allurement for anybody abroad to say, “Well my grandma didn’t accomplish Rigó Jancsi like this, and she absolutely wouldn’t allegation me $13 for the privilege!” But while Dear Inga isn’t by-the-books authentic, it succeeds as a admiring estimation of the flavors the chef has agitated with him all these years.

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